Eating Your Way Through Sri Lanka: A Budget Traveler’s Food Diary
Sri Lanka is a gem of an island in the Indian Ocean, boasting a rich history, vibrant culture, and, most importantly for food enthusiasts, an incredible culinary scene. For the budget traveler, Sri Lanka offers an array of mouth-watering dishes that won’t break the bank. From street food stalls to local eateries, this food diary will guide you through a gastronomic adventure on a shoestring budget, and by the end, you’ll have all the tips you need to recreate this culinary journey at home.
Day 1: Colombo’s Culinary Delights
Breakfast at Pettah Market
Our adventure begins in Colombo, the bustling capital of Sri Lanka. The Pettah Market is a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. For breakfast, I grab a plate of hoppers—bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. The center is often soft and spongy, while the outer edges are crispy. Topped with a fried egg, these hoppers are flavorful and light, costing me just a few Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR).
Lunch at Galle Face Green
Next, I head to Galle Face Green, a seaside urban park. Here, food vendors sell a variety of snacks. I try isso vadai, spicy prawn fritters made from lentils and prawns, seasoned with onions, curry leaves, and green chilies. At just LKR 30 per piece, it’s a perfect, affordable lunch.
Dinner at a Local Eatery
For dinner, I visit a local eatery to try kottu roti. This dish consists of chopped roti bread stir-fried with vegetables, eggs, and a choice of meat. The clanging sound of metal blades as the cook chops and mixes the kottu roti on a hot griddle is a unique experience. My chicken kottu costs LKR 200, and it’s both filling and delicious.
Day 2: Exploring Kandy’s Culinary Scene
Breakfast with a View
In Kandy, I start my day with a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast at a small guesthouse overlooking the lake. I enjoy pol sambol (coconut relish) with string hoppers (steamed rice noodle cakes). The subtle sweetness of the coconut coupled with the spiciness of the sambol is a perfect match.
Lunch at the Central Market
The bustling Central Market in Kandy is a treasure trove of fresh produce and street food. I try lamprais, a Dutch-influenced rice dish wrapped in banana leaves. It contains a mixture of rice, meat curry, fried ash plantains, and a boiled egg. For just LKR 250, this meal is a steal.
Tea and Snacks
No visit to Kandy is complete without sampling some Ceylon tea. I stop by a tea room to enjoy a cup of tea paired with samosas and cutlets—deep-fried snacks filled with spiced meat or fish. The total cost for this delightful afternoon snack is just LKR 100.
Dinner at a Family Restaurant
For dinner, I visit a family-run restaurant to try rice and curry. This is not just one dish but a feast, including a mound of rice accompanied by various curries made from vegetables, fish, or meat. The flavors are complex and varied, and the meal costs only LKR 300.
Day 3: The Flavors of Ella
Breakfast at a Bakery
Ella is a small town in the hill country, known for its stunning views and hiking trails. I start my day with a visit to a local bakery for some roti filled with coconut and sugar, paired with a cup of Ceylon tea. This simple yet satisfying breakfast costs LKR 50.
Lunch at a Local Cafe
After a morning hike to the Nine Arches Bridge, I stop at a local cafe for lunch. I order vegetable roti—a flatbread stuffed with a spicy vegetable filling—and a side of dhal curry. The combination is hearty and costs only LKR 150.
Dinner at a Guesthouse
For dinner, I opt for a guesthouse that offers cooking classes. I learn to make dhal curry, pol sambol, and coconut roti. The hands-on experience is both fun and educational, and the meal itself is incredibly satisfying. The entire experience, including the cooking class and dinner, costs LKR 500.
Day 4: Coastal Cuisine in Galle
Breakfast by the Beach
In Galle, I start my day with a refreshing breakfast of curd and treacle. Curd, made from buffalo milk, is thick and creamy, while the treacle adds a sweet, caramel-like flavor. This light and healthy breakfast costs LKR 100.
Lunch at Galle Fort
Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a variety of dining options. I choose a small cafe to try fish ambul thiyal, a sour fish curry made with tuna and tamarind. Served with rice and a side of mallung (chopped greens), this meal is both flavorful and affordable at LKR 200.
Dinner with a Sunset View
For dinner, I head to a beachside restaurant to enjoy devilled prawns—a spicy, tangy dish made with fresh prawns, onions, and peppers. Paired with a side of fried rice, this meal costs LKR 350 and offers a perfect end to my day, watching the sunset over the Indian Ocean.
Day 5: The Final Feast in Negombo
Breakfast at a Fish Market
Negombo is a coastal town renowned for its seafood. I visit the fish market early in the morning and have breakfast at a nearby stall. I try lunu miris (spicy onion relish) with kiribath (milk rice). The combination of the creamy rice and the spicy relish is invigorating and costs LKR 100.
Lunch at a Lagoon-side Restaurant
For lunch, I visit a restaurant by the Negombo Lagoon to try crab curry. The crabs are fresh and the curry is rich and spicy, served with a side of rice. This luxurious meal costs LKR 400, but it’s worth every penny.
Dinner at a Local Eatery
For my final meal in Sri Lanka, I opt for a traditional pittu dinner. Pittu is made from rice flour and coconut, steamed in cylindrical containers. It is usually served with coconut milk and a side of fish curry. This simple yet delightful meal costs LKR 200.
Recreating the Sri Lankan Experience at Home
If you’re inspired by this culinary journey and want to recreate it at home, here are some tips and a simple FAQ to get you started:
Essential Ingredients:
1. Spices: Turmeric, curry powder, cumin, coriander, mustard seeds, and fenugreek.
2. Staples: Rice, coconut milk, red lentils, and roti flour.
3. Fresh Produce: Tamarind, curry leaves, green chilies, garlic, ginger, and fresh seafood or meats.
Basic Recipes:
1. Dhal Curry: Sauté onions, garlic, and ginger in oil. Add turmeric and red lentils. Pour in coconut milk and water, then simmer until lentils are tender.
2. Pol Sambol: Grate fresh coconut and mix with chopped onions, green chilies, lime juice, and salt.
3. Coconut Roti: Mix flour, grated coconut, and salt with water to form a dough. Roll into flatbreads and cook on a griddle.
FAQs:
Q: Where can I find the ingredients?
A: Most ingredients can be found at local Asian or Indian grocery stores, or you can order them online.
Q: Can I make these dishes vegetarian or vegan?
A: Absolutely! Many Sri Lankan dishes are naturally vegetarian or can be easily adapted. Use vegetables, tofu, or legumes as protein sources.
Q: How spicy are Sri Lankan dishes?
A: Sri Lankan cuisine is known for its bold flavors and spiciness. You can adjust the heat level by reducing the amount of chilies and spices used.
Q: Are there any cooking classes available?
A: Many cities around the world offer Sri Lankan cooking classes. Check local cooking schools or online platforms like Udemy or Skillshare.
Q: What beverages pair well with Sri Lankan food?
A: Traditional options include Ceylon tea or coconut water. For something alcoholic, a light beer or a refreshing cocktail like a mojito works well.
Embarking on a culinary adventure through Sri Lanka on a budget is an enriching experience that tantalizes your taste buds and immerses you in local culture. With a bit of planning and an adventurous spirit, you can enjoy the vibrant flavors of Sri Lanka without spending a fortune. Happy eating!